Toko, Surry Hills

Crown St is by no means lacking in either recreational or culinary delights. Between the vast array of fashion boutiques, second hand stores and the diverse selection of cafés, I could easily spend many an hour of the day wandering up this arterial road. Heading into the evening, the prospect of drinks and dinner emerges and again choice is not an issue. Among the offerings is Toko, a stylish establishment, which provides izakaya style Japanese dining. Herr Mouttard and I have been meaning to pay this place a visit for a while now, after he had a stellar experience at lunch with a friend. Izakaya, I’m told, is in fact, a way to describe an informal, relaxed form of dining associated with bars, the essence being small communal plates which are ordered as required. Indeed as both Herr Mouttard and I enter, we are greeted with a large open bar complete with inviting couches and tables, before being escorted to our tables, which form part of the main dining area that runs alongside the adjacent kitchen.

Edamame with Maldon Sea Salt

A generous serving, appreciably larger than the serve I had at
OCha-Cha recently although I would have loved more salt. We nibbled on these throughout the meal, finding them increasingly addictive.

Nozomi
Chef’s selection of 13 pieces of nigiri sushi

Toppings included salmon, kingfish, and tuna sashimi, with eel, caviar, scallops and prawns - an eye pleasing selection, with superbly fresh and tasty ingredients. I cannot fault the quality of this dish but that being said, I wouldn’t order it again, simply because there are more unique dishes available.


Toko Roll - Spider Maki
Soft shell crab, wasabi mayonnaise, rock chives and yamagobo wrapped in nori paper and daikon

As decadent as it sounds, we’re both going through a soft shell crab phase, hardly economical in the current financial climate. As a result, we found this sushi immensely satisfying, the crisp crab utterly delicious. The yamagobo (pickled burdock), is something I rarely come into contact with and in this case, it manifested as a slightly sweet crunch concurrent to the crab within the roll. I marvelled at the thin, even layer of daikon wrapped around the maki – and the knife skills that produced it.

Kamo Nashi Namasu
Duck breast with sansho pepper and marinated nashi pear

The nashi is marinated in something vinegar based, it’s tart nature complimenting the richness of the duck breast. I also enjoyed the mash of textures brought about with the crunchy pear and tender duck. I’ve never had sansho/sichuan pepper straight like this before, finding it a milder, more refined and subtle brother to regular black pepper. It too, goes remarkably well with the duck. A well thought out combination of textures and flavours.

Edamame with Chilli sauce

After finishing the first bowl of edamame, we opted for the chilli version and quickly wished we hadn’t. While they were done very well, served warm and coated in a salty, mild chilli sauce, we pined for the clear freshness of the plain version. A matter of individual taste really.

Toko Roll - Sake Kawa Maki
Grilled salmon skin, ikura and spring onions served as a dragon roll with seared salmon

No complaints here, my favourite part was the salmon roe/ikura garnish with it’s mini flavour explosions.

Yakitori
Skewered chicken with spring onions and hichimi pepper

Although a tad burnt at the end, I was seriously impressed with the level of enjoyment I received from these modest looking skewers. I could easily eaten a dozen more. I can’t pinpoint exactly what it was… The chicken itself was firm yet tender, while the glaze was a moreish mixture of sweet with a hint of spice. I’d love to be able to rustle up the marinade at home.

Warm Dark Chocolate Fondant
Served with Vanilla Miso Ice cream

Ordered at the recommendation of our waitress, we were deciding between this and the Toko Annin Pannacotta, which was layers of almond pannacotta and passionfruit jelly served with tonka bean ice cream and mochi. Although retrospectively, I doubt I could have deprived Herr Mouttard of his daily chocolate fix… Once we got a taste of this, we were SO GLAD we had ordered it. It was heavenly! I’ve had chocolate fondant before at much more upmarket restaurants, but this was on another level. The gooey chocolate centre was just divine. The ice cream had a subtle hint of savoury in it, presumably from the miso and was a great accompaniment.

Toko only takes reservations for lunch and their private dining area, which holds between 12 – 19 people. We arrived around 6ish, while it was still light, and relatively empty but noticed that it quickly filled up shortly after our arrival. I have read that seating and service can be an issue… While it didn’t compare to the heinous queue at Wagaya, I do recommend getting there earlier rather than later. I do concede however, that waiting is much easier and less undesirable when there’s a bar around:)
Toko Restaurant and Bar
490 Crown St
Surry Hills NSW Australia 2010
Phone: (02) 9357 6100

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Party Lamingtons - A fun Idea for Australia Day


Lamingtons were rife during my primary school years. Being part of an expanding school meant there was always a reason to raise funds, so lamington drives, as well as the giant lamington stand at our annual school feté were an omnipresent occurrence. I’m going to now guestimate that during that period I must have consumed at least my own body weight in these icing and coconut encrusted sponge cubes. The ones back then seemed massive (especially compared with my five year old hands) and were bursting with cream – they were a meal in themselves… The creation of a migrant French patissier and named after Lord and Lady Lamington, the humble lamington has now been elevated to icon status in it’s home state of Queensland.

Whilst flicking through the Faking It cookbook, I found this recipe for a more colourful version of this treat. In line with the convenience aspect of the cookbook, the sponge cake is store bought and little preparation and time is required. With this in mind, the overall result is largely dependent on the quality of cake and unlike it’s vibrant colours would suggest, the flavour of the jelly crystals isn’t overly dominant in the final product.

I’ll be using this recipe with yellow and green jelly crystals for Australia Day this year wherever that ends up being, and am still debating whether or not I’d like to pipe some cream in as well!

Party Lamingtons from the Faking It Cookbook

Ingredients
85g packet of strawberry jelly crystals
85g packet of orange jelly crystals
1 tbs unsalted butter/margarine
1 tbs cocoa powder
½ cup (85g) icing sugar, sifted
3 tbs boiling water
350g store bought vanilla sponge cake (or if making your own, 1 day old), cut into cubes
Desiccated coconut

Method
1. Boil 500ml water in a kettle
2. Place jelly crystals in separate containers/jugs and add 250ml water to each
3. Mix until crystals are dissolved and pour jelly into separate shallow containers
4. Chill in fridge for 1 – 1.5 hours (you want the jelly to be semi set)
5. To make chocolate icing, place cocoa powder, icing sugar, butter/marg and water in a bowl and whisk with fork until combined. If icing sets over time, add another tablespoon of boiling water.
6. To make lamingtons, dip sponge cubes into jelly/chocolate icing, then straight into desiccated coconut, place on rack to set. If the jelly is too firm, you can sit the container in a hot water bath for a couple of minutes.

Black Star Pastry, Newtown

Tucked just off King St, I felt like Black Star Pastry was my little bakery secret – until H mentioned it’s gingerbread ninjas. Secret’s Out! The bakery also functions as a café and although I’ve never eaten in, the polished surrounds and friendly staff create an intimate setting, regardless of how busy it gets. I do feel this is an inadequate post in terms of pictures, since the following snapshots are only a small slice of what’s really on offer…

The place is run by Christopher The, formerly of Quay, Claudes and Sonoma’s, who creates a multitude of sweet and savoury goodies, in addition to some seriously good bread. Glancing around, the sweet section of the shop is laid out in an open manner on cooling racks adorning the counters. Little chocolates, those gingerbread ninjas (so cute) and little bite size chocolates easily tempt me at every turn.


Lemon Curd Biscuit

I choose this one! True to my penchant for lemon, this really was a no brainer. The thumbnail biscuit is delicately crumbly while the lemon curd is silky with that satisfying tang.

What really caught my eye were the jams for sale, near the cash register I eyed off the large jars of marmalade and rose petal jam before deciding to wait for next time.


Mushroom Quiche

Inside the Mushroom Quiche

Herr Mouttard’s savoury option, we also chose a baguette that day which we gobbled up quickly! Lovely quiche, the pastry was perfect and the bread on the baguette (brie and salad) was probably the best I’ve had in a while.

I find Black Star Pastry an elegant patch in the of Newtown, it’s products with an air of refinement equal to the showiness of my other favourite bakery
Adriano Zumbo. While Zumbo definitely has an edge on sweetness with his gorgeous and decadent creations, Black Star Pastry offers much better bread (big plus for me) and savouries. It’s also more convenient than Sonomas me lol. To me it’s quite similar to the smaller patisseries/boulangeries I encountered while in Paris, which were full of dazzling and delicious creations and truly sanctuaries of all things baked.

277 Australia St
Newtown, NSW, 2042
Ph: (02) 9557 8656

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Mövenpick Ice Cream Parlour, Cairns

Regardless of time, place or occasion, I’m always naturally inclined towards ice cream. Live with me for a week and you’ll no doubt hear me yelling down the stairs “I want ice cream for dinner!” When asked what my favourite food is, I can never decide on an answer (being enthusiastic about so many foods), but if actions speak louder than words, then maybe, just maybe, it’s Ice Cream.

In Sydney, I like stocking up on tubs of Serendipity Ice Cream but where would ChocolateQueen, Daisy Moo and I go to satisfy a late night sweet tooth in Cairns? The Mövenpick Ice Cream Parlour of course! Sitting at the northern end of the Esplanade, we were lucky enough to find parking straight across the road. I was first introduced to Mövenpick ice cream while in Geneva by Herr Mouttard while choosing a movie in a video store. It’s a common product/brand over there (being Swiss), with the ice creams available in supermarkets and even Mövenpick branded restaurants.



Iced Chocolate

So pretty! Our iced chocolate is served in an impossibly tall glass. I’ve put the sugar container there in an effort to do it justice. I am not exaggerating, to get to the straw I had to Stand Up (No laughing at my petite stature please lol). If you order this, I recommend leaving it for a few minutes to let the chocolate ice cream sink to the bottom, otherwise, your first few sips will taste only of plain milk. Overall, it’s a darker/bitter tasting iced chocolate and quite rich – it took all three of us to finish it lol.



Belgian Waffles
Served with Crème Brulee and Tiramisu ice cream

You can choose any two ice cream flavours you like:) The Crème brulee was sweet with only a slight caramel flavour (there’s also a caramel ice cream flavour available) I was particularly impressed with the Tiramisu ice cream. Normally, I find tiramisu ice creams heavily laden with coffee flavouring and not much else, but this particular version had a finely balanced mix of coffee and liqueur – I could have eaten it (and the waffles) all day!. The waffle was warm and fluffy, dense enough for me to feel like I was getting a carb hit, while still light enough for me to keep wanting more. The designated waffle connoisseur in our trio, Daisy Moo, commented that she preferred the waffles at the Guylian Café, simply because they had a crisper edge to them.

Romanoff Coupe
Vanilla Dream and Strawberry ice creams, served with fresh strawberries, berry sauce and whipped cream

Underneath the mounds of ice cream, we found a generous serve of fat, juicy strawberries coated in syrup. While the strawberry ice cream was nice, the vanilla really stole the show.

Many people will label vanilla ice cream as the most boring ice cream flavour. I whole heartedly disagree. For those who need some convincing, I dare you to try the Vanilla Dream ice cream:P I was simply blown away. With it’s tiny black vanilla specks and gorgeously thick, creamy texture, we all found ourselves gravitating towards the white blobs in our glass.

Overall, the ice cream was rich and creamy – just the way I like it. I’ve never been to the Mövenpick ice cream at Manly back in Sydney, but if it sells little tubs of the Mövenpick icecream like it’s Cairns counterpart, I might just have to give it a quick visit:)

Movenpick Ice Cream
Shop5a/ 95 -105
The Esplanade

Jamie Oliver Vs Mario Batali - Celebrity Chef Faceoff!


Warning SPOILER! Through friends with Pay TV, Herr Mouttarde was able to report that he’d just witnessed Jamie Oliver’s defeat in his showdown with American Iron Chef (Italian) Mario Batali. Mario Batali, the Michelin star winning American is a favourite of Herr Mouttarde's, who appreciates the fine dining slant which all his meals on the series have taken so far, while I’ve recently reverted to be being a Jamie Oliver fan again (love/hate relationship), after rehashing his early cookbooks from some dusty and forgotten shelves.

While not particularly high profile here in Australia, Mario Batali has had his fair share of media exposure in the US. He was part of the Food Network family, with multiple TV shows and has gone on to open a string of restaurants, including a Michelin Star winner Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca. He’s had a handful of cooking shows and has further opened a string of restaurants. Jamie Oliver probably needs less of an explanation to the Australian audience, with Jamie At Home repeats showing on Channel 10, I still remember his early Naked Chef series and all the rest, including that onstage cooking tour he embarked on a few years back.

So, in a battle of celebrity chefs Mario Batali has triumphed – by only 2 points. Who would you have voted for?? I was backing Jamie lol. I’m planning to watch the episode myself so asked not to be told details and apparently Jamie will be taking on the rest of the American Iron Chefs as part of a series. How do you think he’ll fare?? I think this concept makes for great TV, especially for foodies like me:D I’d love to see a cook off involving Gordon Ramsay.

Who would star in your ultimate celebrity chef showdown?

Ricotta Cheesecake with Balsamic Strawberries

This recipe was lifted from the Taste website after initially thinking of baking a regular cheesecake. Much lighter than it’s cream cheese counterpart, it’s also a lot less sweet, balanced with the perfect match of strawberries and balsamic vinegar in the syrup. Being a lot less rich than a regular cheesecake it’s also a lot easier to fit in more slices lol. In the process of experimenting with other recipes, so will keep you posted.

Ricotta Cheesecake with Balsamic Strawberries – Original recipe here

Ingredients
200g digestive biscuits
75g unsalted butter/margarin, melted
125g caster sugar, plus extra 2 tbs
650g ricotta
1 tbs cornflour
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 eggs, separated
150ml sour cream

Strawberry Syrup
55g (1/4 cup) caster sugar
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp cornflour
¼ cup water
250g strawberries, cut

Method
Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease line a springform tin, mine was 20cm.

Pulse biscuits in food processor, then add 2 tbs of caster sugar and melted butter/margarine. Press mixture into tin.

Beat together the ricotta, cornflour, vanilla, 125g of the caster sugar, egg yolks and sour cream.

In a separate clean bowl, beat the eggwhites until stiff peaks form, then fold into the ricotta mixture. Pour into tin and bake for 50-60 minutes until golden (mine took 70 min).

Mix cornflour with a little water. Combine water, caster sugar, vinegar in pan over low heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Add cornflour mixture and cook for a few minutes until sauce has thickened. Remove from heat, leave to cool slightly then add the strawberries.

To serve, allow cake to cool slightly (will sink in the middle), then remove from tin and serve drizzled with syrup.
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Love Supreme, Paddington

“Off to Paddington!” we announce, as we rumble down Cleveland St in Madam Saucy’s newly acquired retro old Saab. With it’s clunky gearbox, sticky and heavy clutch and almost nonexistent handbrake, this barely roadworthy relic (which I found adorably charming) is the designated vehicle for the night. MedicineWoman bravely takes to wheel and we slowly but surely head towards Love Supreme, for an Italian themed light meal.

When we arrive, the place is packed. We wait patiently in line, beside the kitchen, where I see stacks of pizza trays hanging overhead. The kitchen is gratingly noisy at times, the restaurant a dimly lit cavernous room, filled with posses of smartly dressed Sydneysiders ready for a Saturday night – the accompanying bar readily obliging with drinks.

We’re greeted by a frantic lady, who is stressing that there are no tables and too long a line. We express we are happy to wait and are eventually seated at our table. Service was erratic and unreliable throughout the meal, with all staff we came across emitting a frustrated, flustered vibe, which was certainly contributing to the low level of service, perhaps they were understaffed that night. Feel free to find your own cutlery and water..


Antipasto Plate

Shared between the three of us, I was happy with the variety offered, taking to the zucchini flower and artichoke hearts particularly well. Value is poor however, this plate costing $25.00, I’ve had better for less.

Tomato Bruschetta

We weren’t particularly hungry that night and when this happens, it is not uncommon for Madam Saucy to order a serve of bruschetta for her main. Usually bruschetta portions suffice, but alas not this night. The serving was abysmally small - that’s two cherry tomatoes side by side on top! Taste wise, it was great, but even I could have finished that serve in one bite. We were lucky there were no famished males in our company. Again, value appears to be an issue.

Pizza – All the Best
Artichoke hearts, pesto, capsicum, grilled eggplant

Pizza is where this restaurant redeems itself - somewhat. MedicineWoman and I shared a pizza, which had no cheese on one half (MedicineWoman is vegan). I really enjoyed the flavours on this pizza, but was a bit dismayed at the presentation. Rustic is one thing, but we had to scrape most of the toppings from the plate back onto the base… The base itself was a tiny bit thicker than the one I had at Rosso Pomodoro, and had a more substantial crunch.

Overall, it appears to be a popular venue for locals, and the line continued to grow as we settled into our meal - I wouldn’t be deterred by this though as turnover appeared to be quick. Value is definitely an issue here for me; I’d recommend sticking to the pizzas. Not sure if I would come again, seeing as I have other much more satisfying pizza options much closer to home…

Love Supreme
Opp Victoria Barracks
180 Oxford St
Paddington, NSW, 2021
Phone (02) 9331 1779



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OCha-Cha, Cairns

With Japanese gossip magazines and tabloids lazily draped over the lovely hardwood furniture, lower tables for those wishing to sit on the floor and an order at the counter/pay before you eat system, this intimate and unpretentious Japanese restaurant is hidden gem, tucked away upstairs at Palm Court. The serenity inside belies the large, bustling and noisy Blue Sky Brewery which has recently taken the lion’s share of Palm Court square footage downstairs.

Barley Tea

Complimentary and self serve barley tea and water is available to all patrons.

The menu is written simply, no elaborate descriptions with items listed in both English and Japanese. We choose to start the meal with some edamame to share.

Edamame

The edamame arrive after a short wait. Oddly the soybean pods are very cold, hinting or blatantly telling us, that they’ve just been taken out of the fridge. There aren’t very many of them either, barely managing to cover the bottom of the bowl.

Grill Set Tray

We all opt for a grill dinner set option, which all arrive on trays, served with rice, a bowl of miso, a little portion of tofu and fruit.


Rice

Tofu

The tofu is silky and soft, served with a sweet soy sauce.

Grapes

Chicken Teriyaki

I was quite happy with my choice, the succulent morsels of chicken drenched with the teriyaki sauce. The meat was topped with finely shredded cabbage.

Japanese Hamburg (not a typo)

When Daisy Moo ordered this, I was pretty excited – I was almost going to get this myself and expected it to be a hamburger with rice patties substituting bun rolls. The hamburg itself is actually a giant beef burger. Unlike other burgers, which I would describe as heavy and dense, this burger was light and moist despite being cooked though. The meat was so tender it melted in the mouth and was served with some vegies and seaweed on top. Again, a side of finely grated cabbage was provided.

Grilled Salmon

ChocolateQueen went for this fish option. The fish pieces were quite fat, but seemed a bit dry to me. The fish was served with lemon and the obligatory finely shredded cabbage.

I found this place to be of outstanding value (all meals were around $10), and quite enjoyed the simple food combined with the relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

OCha-Cha
Shop F7-F8, Palm Court
34 Lake St
Cairns, QLD, 4870
Phone: (07) 4051 7055


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Wagaya, Haymarket, Sydney

Aqua Dining, Milson's Point

For me, the view of Sydney Harbour is strikingly picturesque and as touristy as it sounds, I never tire of it. Framed by the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, it’s hard to find another scene which manages to completely encapsulate the essence and style of Sydney. With interstate visitors, we ended our weekend with lunch at Aqua Dining, above the swimming pool at Milson’s Point. It was a gorgeous day, clear and sunny and it was unfortunate that we couldn’t sit outside (too many people). With the Harbour view on one side and Luna Park on the other, every view was postcard worthy.

Bread

Complimentary bread was provided and topped up throughout the meal, served with olive oil (which I prefer over butter). The bread was soft, nothing spectacular but a satisfying carb hit nonetheless.

Pan fried yamba prawns
On creamed leek, persian feta and salsa verde

Immaculate presentation, which the large, juicy prawns sitting within the delicately balancing tower.


Pancetta wrapped canadian scallops with grilled haloumi salad
Preserved lemon and green olive salsa
Crisp fried zucchini flower with white anchovy

This dish was ordered by nine of the ten people present at lunch (including myself). The scallops were fat, succulent morsels, which married well with the preserved lemon and olive salsa to provide a light, fresh flavour explosion. The crunchy zucchini flower, filled with salty white anchovy adorned the haloumi and added a heartier dimension to the plate. A hit with the entire table, I loved these scallops!

Rack of Western Australian “Q” lamb
Fig and hazelnut tarte tatin, croquette potato, caramelised pancetta,
Accompanied by a smoked tomato lamb jus

I didn’t try any of this but I was told that the lamb was perfectly cooked and the fig and hazelnut tarte tatin was to die for.

Roast fillet of blue eye cod
Fregolone, spinach, parmesan, white asparagus and a sorrel sauce

I was in a seafood mood and ordered this fish dish which was one of three fish options on the mains menu (the others being a barramundi or ocean trout). Simply satisfying. Perfectly cooked fish, atop a mass of fregolone mixed with wilted spinach. The foamy sauce was light and the asparagus sweet. I’ve always wanted to cook fregolone at home but have never seen it for sale here. My understanding is that it’s a pasta made with semolina, but to me, it tasted more like miniature spaetzle (which is flour based). Like rest of the mains, a decent portion, I managed only half of the fish fillet, passing the rest to Herr Moutarde.

Proscuitto wrapped veal fillet
Spiced with juniper on braised leek with a cauliflower fritter and a seeded mustard jus

This dish arrived to my left and directly across me. I didn’t try any but reports for the tasty looking veal were good.

Baby beans with spiced nut crumble

Crisp baby kipfler potatoes, confit garlic, rosemary and parsley

Amedei chocolate tasting plate
From tuscany, this chocolate has won
Best chocolate in the world, consecutively for 3 years,
Here showcased in four different styles

A true chocolate fiend, Herr Moutarde could not go past this dessert choice. From the far left: Chocolate cake type crumbs topped with ice cream, chocolate tarte, chocolate slice/cake/brownie served with cherries and cream, chocolate crème brulee type dish. The chocolate crème brulee was almost mousse like in texture, yet still decidedly rich and dense. The fine layer of caramelised sugar was sweet with no burnt tasting quality (which I prefer). The cake with cherries was nice, being a square of heavy chocolate cake, but for some reason didn’t stand out like the rest of the offerings. The chocolate tart could easily have bought a tear to my eye (if I was that type). Silky chocolate filling encased with a short chocolate tart shell – chocolate heaven. I didn’t try the chocolate crumbs but was told they too were delicious. Overall I think a nice showcase for the distinctive flavour of Amadei chocolate, which seemed to have a well rounded cocoa flavour without being overly bitter, sticky or sweet.

Orgy of summer berries
Mascarpone and champagne mousse,
Crisp meringue and raspberry sorbet

My choice to end the meal. I am by no means a dictionary (so please don’t berate me if I’m wrong here), but for me, the word orgy is synonymous with unadulterated pleasure and excess. After seeing this pretty concoction served to neighbouring tables, then reading it’s description when our time for dessert came, it was an easy decision. The mousse was light yet luscious, contrasted by the juicy berries (mainly strawberries mixed throughout) and crunchy meringue. The sorbet on top was lovely and I found myself thoroughly enjoying this summery dessert. I think it would have been very easy for this dish to become much too sweet but it wasn’t, which was a pleasant surprise to those at the table who ordered it.

Braeburn apple crumble souffle
With double cream and poached apple

The last time I was at Aqua Dining, it was for my birthday dinner last year (before I started blogging), where the enjoyable experience was tainted by the fact that I was served a raw lemon soufflé…twice. It truly was an unsettling end, mitigated by the awesome company I had, the impeccable staff and the otherwise flawless food. The menu has since changed, with an apple soufflé now on offer. This meal was chosen by almost all on the table, and I’m happy to report, arrived perfectly cooked! I tried some on my right and was blown away at the delicate texture and seemingly pure apple essence which emanated from the warm mouthfuls. I definitely recommend.

Petit fours

White chocolate ganache balls, either plain or mixed with chopped dried apricot and rolled in toasted coconut. YUM!

For our group, Aqua Dining provided a remarkably pleasant and satisfying dining experience, with fresh contemporary food and comprehensive wine list. – Not a bad way to ring in the new year. Smart service didn’t unnoticed either. The lunch specials (which I had for the first time this time round), offer additional value, but I think it’s worth going either night or day.


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Aqua Dining
Corner of Paul & Northcliff Streets
Milsons Point, NSW, 2061
Phone: (02) 9964 9998
http://www.aquadining.com.au/

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